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Gunnar Damström
11-04-11, 22:06
The menu on a Finnish dinner table of old may raise some eyebrows, but is very interesting. Kosher is not an epithet often usable. Essentially the motto was that nothing, or as little as possible should to go to waste. That includes entrails. In October at slaughter time lamb kidney was often on the menu. Well- I’ve modified this original recipe some to make it more palatable to modern tastes. I find the dish a great delicacy.

To serve 4 you need:

8 lamb kidneys.
2 Tbsp butter
1 tsp Dijon mustard
10 French tarragon leaves
12 morel mushrooms (dry or fresh)
½ cup dry white wine or Nolly Prat Vermouth
1 cup of heavy cream
5 drops lemon juice
Salt, freshly ground white pepper.

Trim the kidneys, if needed. In a heavy cast iron sauce pan melt the butter over a medium-high heat. When the butter turns amber color, add the kidneys, two at a time, and brown them thoroughly. The kidneys will retain a rouge inside. Set aside.

If you use dry morels, place them in a beaker and add water until it almost covers the mushrooms. Let soak for ½ hour. Remove the mushrooms and press out the water with you hand without crushing them. Dice the mushrooms. Place the wine or the vermouth in a skillet, add the tarragon leaves and the mushroom and cook over a medium heat until almost dry. Add the mustard and the cream and cook over a medium-high heat until the sauce thickens. Turn off the heat. Season with lemon juice, salt and freshly ground white pepper. Slice the kidneys lengthwise in ¼“slices. Add the slices and juices to the skillet and let them heat up, but don’t cook.

Serve with steamed peas or a carrot timbale.